[SUMC] Welcome back - learn to lead trad

SUMC Committee sumc at sumc.org.uk
Fri Jan 27 14:54:35 GMT 2012

Hi Everyone

Hope the exams went well for you and you're enjoying your time off. A quick
reminder about the indoor trips:

Dynamic rock starts on *THIS MONDAY*. Meet outside fulton house at 5:30pm,
trip cost is £7.50.
Uni wall sessions started last night and continue every *THURSDAY*. Meet at
7:00pm at the uni wall, cost is £1.50

Now then

The next outdoor trip is the learn to lead trad trip to Morlais Quarries.
If you want to learn to lead trad please read carefully below.

The trip cost is *£6* and not the usual 5. This is to cover the costs of
the teachers giving up their free time to teach trad.

Currently set to 16, it may increase with more driver response. As this is
primarily for learners this sign up will be prioritised for drivers and
teachers first, then learners, then anyone else who wants to second some

Ill be signing up the teachers and drivers who have already offered to help
first, and then the sign up sheet will open at *5:00pm on Saturday
(tomorrow)*. This initial sign up period will be for learners ONLY. If you
want to learn to lead trad, sign up, and in the comments box please write '*I
want to lead trad*'. *If you do not write this in the box, your name will
>From *Wednesday* onwards the remaining places will be opened to EVERYONE.
>From Wednesday onwards you don't need to add anything to the box and your
name will not be removed.

Seconders please be aware though, you will be put with groups (possibly
your friends though) who are learning trad so you wont get as much climbing
done as a normal trip. This doesn't mean that your day will be boring
though (see here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=153255)...

Only the basics will be taught on very easy grades here. We will teach you
how to set up a rope (dynamic) belay on a single pitch route, what a good
gear placement is, the importance of rope drag reduction and if time
permits anything else you come across. You need to be a competent indoor
sport leader and be able to lead belay. The reason for this competency is
indoor sport routes have frequent bolts that are secure and simple to clip.
With trad routes, its uncommon to get all 3 of these factors on a route to
the same degree as an indoor route i.e. good gear with long run outs or
lots of marginal gear etc. Please understand that trad climbing is ALOT
more dangerous then leading sport indoors.

*Kit list*
Stuff you'll need whether your a teacher, learner or seconder:

Sensible climbing clothes IE NOT JEANS
Warm clothing!
Approach shoes/boots for the walk in
Money for food afterwards
Hats + Gloves (Optional)

*Meeting times*
Due to Morlais being a bit out of the way, We'll be meeting at *Fulton
house at 7:50am*! and leaving promptly at 8:00am. We'll be getting back to
campus at about 7:00pm at the latest.

I think thats everything, if you need to know anything more ping me an
E-mail and I'll get back to you

Matt Ev

SUMC Committee

Web: http://www.sumc.org.uk
Forum: http://www.sumc.org.uk/cragchat

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